Autocycle pedal crank removal trouble

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Autocycle pedal crank removal trouble

Post  Darren393 on Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:44 pm

I have removed the cotter pin and pedal from the other side of the pedal crank, followed by the threaded retaining collar (if that's what it's called?) and the ball bearings.
However, I am having difficulty removing the crank from the sprocket side. There seems to be a retaining collar holding the crank in the frame, but the actual sprocket is so close to the frame I cannot get anything in there to undo the collar. The collar appears to have two flat sides in order to take a spanner, but I have nothing thin enough to fit. Is there a speacial tool, or can someone supply a measured diagram so that I can make such a tool? I cannot even get a vernier guage in there to check the width of the flat sides.
If anyone can help it will be extremely helpful so that I can move on in my restoration.

Kind regards

Darren

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Pedal Crank Removal

Post  JohnMac on Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:45 pm

Hi Darren

On my Motobyks the bottom bracket assemblies are similar to those on ordinary bicycles. It is necessary to remove the chainwheel before the spindle can be removed. I think you may be trying to remove it from the wrong side.

For my bikes the procedure was to first remove the chainwheel from the right hand side, then on the left side remove the pedal crank and then loosen the lock ring behind it with a C spanner. This allows adjustable cup behind the ring to be removed. The spindle can then be withdrawn from the left hand side (and all the ball bearing will fall out). This will leave the fixed cup exposed on the RHS. This is probably what you see behind the chainwheel. I think that once you have the chainwheel off and the fixed cup is exposed you will be able to find something to unscrew it with. Be aware that pedals and I think the fixed cup behind the chain wheel will have left hand threads so that they don't unscrew when the bike is being ridden.

To get the thing back together again you need to put in the fixed cup and then lay the bike on its side with the fixed cup down and use plenty of grease to hold the ball bearing in place until assembly is complete.

Good luck

JohnMac

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Thanks John

Post  Darren393 on Tue Feb 07, 2012 3:49 pm

Hi John.

I forgot to mention one other problem..... There is no cotter pin in the chainwheel side pedal arm, and I can see that the arm has not been put on the crank spindle properly as the flat side of the spindle is not in the correct position (the pedals wern't opposite either) and the arm is stuck fast.
I think I might have to cut the arm off as heat hasn't helped move it, nor soaking it in WD40, and I cannot see any way to pull the arm off, unless you have any ideas I could try?

I've hopefully had success with the front wheel hub brake plate and spindle, and have found some new mudguards which appear to be wide enough, although they are polished alloy. I will look to get them painted or powder coated to get them back to black. I know that new mud guards are a long way off, but it gives me inspiration!

Best regards

Darren

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Chainwheel removal

Post  JohnMac on Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:37 pm

Hi Darren

Not being able to remove the chainwheel explains a lot!

It sounds like the original has been replaced at some stage. If my experience is anything to go by, it is not easy to pick-up a 40T cottered chainwheel with short pedal cranks which are ideally bent to increase clearance of (I think) the petrol tank. I have no idea of how it could be removed unless something could be wedged behind the chainwheel that would enable the fixed cup to be unscrewed (clockwise) using the pedal crank as a lever.

You have done well to get hold of a hub brake plate and mudguards so quickly. I thought that they would be quite difficult to find.

Regards

JohnMac
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Re: Autocycle pedal crank removal trouble

Post  Darren393 on Wed Feb 08, 2012 3:56 pm

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Hi John.

Does this crankwheel look right in it's design to be original? Sorry for it being off centre but the pic was mainly of the engine. I'm going to have another go tomorrow in getting it off, otherwise I'll cut a slot in the arm and prise the cut apart in order to get it off the shaft. Then just hope that I can get a suitable arm.

The mudguards are from a push bike shop, 26" x 50mm, which I think will be about right, £40.00 the pair.

Regards

Darren

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Re: Autocycle pedal crank removal trouble

Post  Darren393 on Thu Feb 09, 2012 11:23 am

Hey John.

I managed to strip the frame down completely, and dropped the engine out today. Once this was done I was able to get a vernier gauge between the crank and the fame and measured the retaining ring, to be app 36mm between the flats. I then made a spanner from 5mm steel plate and viola!!! One crank removed from the frame. Very Happy

I can now see that the handlebars are bent, mudguards definately scrap, rear rack has one slightly bent stay, pedal chain guard should be ok once straightened, blasted and powder coated. Frame is straight (thank god), rear wheel spins ok but like the front I will have them fully rebuilt possibly with new rims and definately new spokes regardless.

I have found a brand new replacement Brooks saddle (as that was what was on the bike) but it's £110 Shocked However, it would look a bit daft putting the old one on a new looking bike, LOL

Thanks for your advice so far John.

Darren

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Chainwheel removal

Post  JohnMac on Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:27 pm

Hi Darren

Great to hear that you are making progress, especially without resorting to desparate and irreversible measures! Your chainwheel looks like it might be original but if that is the case I don't understand why it was so difficult to remove.

Just a thought before you splash out on a Brooks saddle. I once bought an autocycles as an abandoned project and it came with a lovely looking and brand new B33 Brooks saddle, the largest they make with a big coiled spring at the front. However, when I finished the bike and got to ride it, I found the saddle to be uncomfortable. The stainless steel clamping arrangement was also unsatisfactory and the SS nuts tended to bind which meant that the saddle was hard to keep in the horzontal position.

I think the Brooks saddles may be more suited to bikes where you are doing a lot of peddling rather than an autocycle where you have an upright riding position and don't have to pedal once the engine is running. Anyway I sold it on e-bay and bought a Lycette saddle instead. In my opinion the Lycette or Terry (?) saddles are a much better job for an autocycle than the hard leather or rubber types as supplied by Brooks or historically by Dunlop. They come up occasionally on e-bay but usually need recovered. Leighton's in Birmingham do this very professionally for ~£70 if you send them the saddle or £45 if they have the pattern and make the cover which you can easily fit yourself. Maybe other members of this forum have ideas on this subject or you will have a chance to try out the different saddle types before you decide.

All the best

John
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Re: Autocycle pedal crank removal trouble

Post  Darren393 on Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:33 pm

Yes, mine is the B33 with the large spring protruding out the front. Perhaps I'll have a look around then.

Just looking for a near'ish powder coater and chromer to save posting, would rather deliver and collect myself.

Darren

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Success!

Post  Darren393 on Sat Feb 11, 2012 9:03 am

I managed to get the chain ring and pedal off using my shiny new hub puller set. A little bit of heat on the pedal arm and off it popped. The bike is now completely stripped down, now I can start sourcing out the work.

Darren

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